Backwaters

It's raining hard here in Trivandrum and the roads are flooded. But the last few days were great. I'd still some money left, there was no work or anything else to go back home to, so I thought I'd explore the area around Trivandrum.

First up was the famous Kovvalam Beach, a former hippy hangout. For the first time in my life, I saw black beaches. In the distant, I also saw two blue sails, sliding gracefully through the Arabian Sea, into the reflection of the afternoon sun. Although no Maldivian would think much of the beach or the water, Kovvalam does have a certain charm. Then there are the many eateries lined up along the beach, serving seafood, fermented toddy, and other beverages.

Then I went to the Varkala beach, in the photo, which is less "happening" but more scenic to my mind.

But the best was the backwaters. I took a longer bus ride to do a shorter cruise on the canals on a local ferry and enjoyed every minute of it. The view from the backwaters really is different. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures because I was busy videoing. The starting point of the trip in Allepy, with the painted boats, reminded me of the canals in England!

The backwaters definitely need more exploration.

Keralan monsoon

The long distance travelling is done with. After a kilometre count of around nine thousand, I'm safely back in Trivandrum, my launching pad to and from the Maldives.

It's been raining ever since the train crossed into the hills around Coimbatore, the border between the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala, early this morning. The paddy fields looked even more lush in the monsoon.

I'll stay here a few days to check out a few places I haven't been to yet and, hopefully, do a boat ride in the famed backwaters.

For anyone interested I've spent just over four hundred US dollars ever since arriving in India nearly four weeks ago.

I'm sure I'll love the monsoon, the backwaters, and the greenery, but I may have left my heart in the cold deserts of Ladakh and its isolate villages, such as Tiksey in the photo.

As for the Maldives, I've no idea what I'm going back to.

sHANU, I think Sharif missed you initially, dunno where he is now.

MARTIN, man, believe it or not you were one inspiration for me to travel alone this time.

JINT, I think the Nubra Valley deserves a re-visit in the real. I'll find it very hard to resist the calling come 2007! Of course I'll also be revisiting it a hundred times or more when I wade through the video footage, lucky me!

Back in Manali

I'm spending my last few hours in the Himalaya. This morning I looked out of my window at the tall, steep pine hills of Manali. I have to admit it was a nice feeling descending into the greenery of Manali after 10 days in the barren deserts of Ladakh.

It's also good to soak in the relative luxury of the Manali hotel---they treated me like a VIP because I went back there and wouldn't hear of registeration or payment until I was rested---and sample the different food here. I was so hungry when I got here yesterday evenig that the first thing I did was to eat a full Punjabi thali (set meal) and a chiken kebab.

I'm booked on a bus to Delhi leaving tonight. I only plan to spend a day there, enough to meet up with a cousin (another one, the world is full of Carnation Cousins)and, probably Shareef, who emailed to say he would be in Delhi too what a coincidence! Hopefully I'll be on the train to Trivandrum the day after that.

I might spend some time in Kerala---perhaps go for a boat ride in the backwaters--depending on how much money I've got left.

I should mention that I left the keys to my house and room in Khunder in the Nubra Valley. My first thought when I realised what I'd done was I can't think of a better place to get lost!

Homeward bound, again...

Having travelled about 4,500 kilometres from the southern tip of India to the northmost that a foreigner can go, I'm now southbound again. I've seen spectacular mountain scenery in Himachal Pradesh, Nepal and Tibet but Ladakh, in particular, the Nubra Valley, beats them all. I've never felt so comfortable and at peace with my surroundings as well as myself.

I didn't mean to do much filming on this journey and really only brought the old XL1 along just in case I wanted to capture a particular scene. But the inspiration for filming has been stronger than anything I've ever felt.

My only regret is I've only spent two days in the Nubra Valley. Next year---for I must come back here as soon as I can---I hope I can wander off there on my own free from the confines of an organised tour.

A WORD TO MARTIN AND EGAN: You have to come to the Nubra Valley, Martin because of it's out-of-this world appearance (I know you can overcome the erm mod-cons aspect if you put your mind to it), and Egan because because of the rich Buddhist art and heritage.

I'm leaving for Manali around midnight tonight and trying to get to Trivandrum as soon as I can in order to keep to the budget I'd planned for this journey.

I don't know what I'll do in the Maldives but the thought of earning enough money to come back here next year takes away some of the sadness of leaving this place.

Gangster

The last stop on the trip, Panamik, was unremarkable except for the hot springs there. But it is the furthest north that you can go in India bordering China and Pakistan. Afghanistan isn't too far either.

For me even the drive there and back was worth it. We stopped at a beautiful lake and a monastery on the way back.

The driver played a song from a Hindi film called Gangster which I'd been hearing on and off on this trip. I like it and am thinking of editing it into the soundtrack of the Nubra video to send to everyone on the trip. While the girls in the back were overcoming the effects of the altitude the driver and I found ouselves humming the song. It goes "Beeghi beeghi..."

Khunder

The village of Khunder is spread out in an oasis of green in the dry, deserts of the Nubra Valley. Avenues of poplar serve as roads and farmfolk live out their pastoral existence here.

Just outside the village are sand dunes, complete with double-humped camels. The sand, the surrounding brown hills and the snow capped mountains in the distant give the place a surreal look.

I went for a stroll through the village to the sand dunes. On the way back, a soldier stopped me to ask if I was from Kerala or Madras. When I said Maldives he told me to feel free to wander wherever I wanted, such is the power of the low-lying island nation I've left.

I got back to the guesthouse unusually tired and went into the kitchen where I was welcomed and told I could take my dinner. I was grateful because it was getting cold outside.

Our driver arrived and was surprised to see me there. But he struck up a conversation and we seemed to "bond". Soon all the staff of the guesthouse gathered here to take their dinner. I was a hit here, known as "the guy with the large camera". The cook, a jolly Tibetan woman, called me "Ali Berber" and the caretaker announced I was their first Maldivian guest.

I had a great evening and the best sleep since I got to Ladakh.

Highest pee

Khardung La, at 5602 metres, is higher than Kala Pattar in Nepal, the highest I'd been so far. It's the world's highest motorable pass, but apart from the stats it didn't really "feel" like a high altitude pass. There was no wind and the view was not as spectacular as that of Lalung La in Tibet or even Tanglang La in Ladakh. But there was a horde of gawking tourists and an army encampment.

The XL1 caused some furor. A soldier asked where I was from and then there ensued a discussion among him and other soldiers as to where the Maldives could possibly be.

I had a cup of chai here and also my highest pee.

There were five of us on the Nubra Valley safari in a Chevrolet 4WD, an Indian girl and her mum, an Israeli girl, and the Ladakhi driver, who all agreed to be "stars" in my film in return for an edited copy. I had the front seat to myself and was able to film at will.

Shanti Stupa

Yesterday afternoon, I trekked a few kilometres up a winding road to Shanti Stupa on top of a hill. It was built by Japanese buddhists. The walk up there and the view from there were amazing. YOu could see the whole of Leh sprawled on the valley, as well as the hills and the snow peaks. I filmed the stupa and the views. Later in the evening I went up the road to a Tibetan cafe for dinner and had the best momos I've had in India.

The exercise, the food, the views, and the chill in the air (temperatures dipped last night) made me feel really good.

I may be going off the the Nubra Valley tomorrow, so more spectacular scenery to see and film.

Tantric dancing

Yesterday I videoed tantric dances performed as part of the Ladakh Festival. Very colourful and great setting. As well as the dance, it gave me a chance to see the ethnic makeup of Leh.

Yesterday and today I breakfasted at a Tibetan kitchen and the woman who runs it, a Tibetan refugee, told me she hadn't been in Tibet for 50 years. She originally came from West Tibet, near Mount Kailash. When I told her I'd been in Lhasa last year, she warmed up to me. I've promised to send her a copy of "Himalayan Dreams".

Co-existence

I'm now well and adjusted to Leh, having walked around in it and oriented myself. The weather's quite warm, but it gets slightly colder in the evenings.

Leh is a bit like Lhasa, surrounded by brown hills. The older houses look Tibetan but the city centre has Indian influences, just like the Chinese influence in Lhasa.

There are three mosques within a few hundred metres of each other. I had a chat with my landlord's son today and he told me that the Muslims and the Budhists have been co-existing in harmony for centuries.

I'm having trouble finding a jeep safari to Nubra Valley, because it's the end of the season and there aren't many tourists who want to go there.

I could go on my own on a local bus but they only issue permits to Nubra via registered agencies and for groups of at least four. I've talked to a few agencies and they say they'll let me know if there's a trip coming up.

Full moon in Leh

In the last bit to Leh, we descended to the fertile Indus Valley and the splashes of green was refreshing after the colourless high altitude landscapes we'd been through. I arrived in Leh and found a small, but nice rustic room in a guesthouse run by a Ladakhi family. After a shower I went out in the full moon for dinner.

This morning I woke up with the headache gone. But Leh is 3,600 metres high, higher than Namche Bazaar in the Everest region in Nepal. I'll rest and recuperate here for the next day or so and then hopefully embark on the last leg of the journey to the Nubra Valley.

General thoughts

-The road wasn't too bad but we had to stop at a few places because of the re-building going on. The road builders, mostly men and women from Bihar and Nepal were sunburnt as they toiled away in the high altitude. Sometimes, they reported to work with their children. I saw a little baby girl, sat on the mountain side, her cheeks red and hardened by the exposure to extreme cold and harsh rays of the sun.

-At one point there was a noise as if the bus had hit something as it swung around a bend. But the vehicle just grunted and moved on. I also saw a few vehicles that had dropped off the mountain road!

-I arrived in Leh, last night, with a persistent headache, mild nausea, and even the loss of my appetite---symptoms of minor altitude sickness. Clearly one night in Keylong (3,300 metres) and four passes ranging in altitude from 3,900 metres to 5,300 metres (the same as Mount Everest Base Camp)in 24 hours was not good for acclimatisation. I think I should have spent two nights in Keylong and then hopped on the bus to Leh. I would have acclimatised better and enjoyed the journey more.

-As expected, I was questioned at the checkposts about the lack of a visa on my passport. There were three checkposts and I have to say it didn't take too long to clear the matter up. So all that worrying was for nothing!

-But this journey has been truly spectacular, better, in my opinion, than the Kathmandu-Lhasa tour. I want to come back again next year!

Taglang La

Taglang La, at 5,300 metres, is the second highest motorable pass in the world. The highest is on route to Nubra Valley, which I hope to visit later. It was the only pass at which the bus stopped, so we all got off. The experience was comparable to Lalunga Pass in Tibet with the wind, the dust, the fluttering prayer flags, and the amazing panorama of mountains and snow peaks. As I looked down on the vistas I thought how far away from the Maldives I was.

Morey plains

The Morey plains were deserty and desolate, but beautiful in an out of this world sort of way. I found myself thinking how much Muha would have enjoyed this trip, and Kareema. In fact this was the second time I'd thought about Kareema. I really must try to persuade to come out here next year. I'd be happy to be her escort!

Pang gorges

Every valley had a different landscape but for me the highlight was the Pang gorges: stunning rock formations carved by nature on the steep mountainsides.

Pee break

When we left at 4 in the morning, I had the beginnings of a headache. When the sun rose we found ourselves in barren, Tibet-like landscape, only the mountains were higher. We stopped for a pee at a spot occupied by the army and the first thing I saw when I got off the bus was a liquor shop! With the headache returned I wasn't really tempted but I was a little alarmed to see the driver buying himself a few bottles!

Keylong

In Keylong at 3,300 metres, my fellow passengers and I were ushered to tents and served dinner. There were eight of us: 3 Culcattans, an English couple, a Swiss guy and a young woman from New Zealand. The latter had worked in London for a while and, with what she earned, toured Europe, South America, Kazkhistan and parts of India. She said travelling by herself gave her more leeway to do her own thing and to get to meet the locals; people were more helpful and invited her to their house because she was alone. Amazing girl, I thought. Keylong is in the beautiful Lahaul countryside, which was already beginning to look like Tibet. But it had patches of green.

Manali-Rohtang Pass

A few hours from Manali and the bus kept climbing higher and higher so that we left the well forested pine hills way below us. After the 4900-metre Rohtang Pass, the landscape became more brown and barren

Off to Ladakh

A 45 minute up the main road, and then a footpath up the side of the mountain brought me to Vashisht, a tiny tourist town near Manali. The last 10 minutes or so up the stone steps, nothing like the torturous uphills of Khumbu in the Everest region, I have to confess, left me a tad breathlesss.

I lunched on a rooftop cafe looking down on the valley: tofu, steamed potatoes and carrots, washed down with apricot and almond lassi. I developed a taste for tofu in Lhasa. My appetite is most at home in the mountains. I remember Muha didn't use to eat so much on the way to Everest, but developed a massive passion for food along the way. I'm not sure it ever really left him now that he's at sea-level.

I had my meal at a place called World Peace Cafe, which may have more hippy connotations than international conflict resolution. Vashisht is known for its hot springs, baths, and pot smoking. This isn't just apple country; it also grows high-quality cannabis, I understand.

This may be my last post until I get to Leh, in Ladakh. My bus leaves at 11 am tomorrow morning. We should overnight at Keylong, over 3000 metres high, and reach Leh late in the night the following day. I don't know what the road conditions are like at present, but its started to rain again. The Manali to Leh journey is a harrowing one, not without risks, but also a spectacular trans-Himalayan journey with several high altitude mountain passes.

I had a disturbing dream last night, several in fact. When I woke up I was feeling a bit groggy and unenthusiastic. But the walk up to Vashisht and the excellent lunch appear to have lifted up spirits somewhat.

Maldives politics in the Himalaya

Just back from an outing from Solang Nulla, some 20km up the mountains, north of Manali. I took the local bus which cost 10 Rupees each way, excellent value for money for a scenic ride in the valley. There's a beautiful meadow up in Solang Nulla, which was full of amateur paragliders. In the winter, the meadow serves as a ski slope. I expected Julie Andrews to run up the hill any minute and burst into "The hills are alive..."

I met an elderly American woman who'd walked all the way up to Solang Nulla from Manali with a youth, a Tibetan refugee from Dharamsala. Dharamsala sees hordes of refugees fleeing from persecution in their homeland of Tibet, now under Chinese rule, and their culture now survives mostly in exile.

Then there were the two children, a boy and a girl 8 or 9 years old, who rode on the bus back to Manali. They'd been trying to sell frozen packets of a sugary drink, a bit like "juicepeti" in the Maldives, to tourists at Solang Nulla. They didn't sell much but that didn't dampen their spirits as they sang their way back to Manali.

These are hardy people, these mountain people of Himachal.

Earlier today, I browsed some of the Maldives websites and discovered that there's been another crackdown on dissent in Addu. I know that even as I sample spectacular mountain scenery in the Himalaya, many brave Maldivian men and women are fighting for basic rights such as the freedom of assembly. Indeed, I know that visitors to this blog are also involved in the struggle and although I'm not part of it, I do send them my best wishes from up here in the Himalaya.

Stuck in the hills

I am stuck here in Manali for the next couple of days as the next bus to Leh sets off on the 6th. I should mention Manali is a popular honeymoon resort for Indians. Lots of couples walking up and down the Mall, lovey dovey and all. This morning as I walked up the hill even a pair of buffalos were at it. Oh well.

The sun came out later in the morning and I strolled out of Manali for a couple of kilometres. I found myself in a nice garden cafe run by a Tibetan family and had chicken momos and a garlic-lemon-honey drink. The garden overlooks a few snow peak up a valley surrounded by thickly forested hills. Heavenly.

I'm thinking of doing a few more treks around here in the next few days. I booked a nice bus to Leh operated by the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation, because the daily fourwheelers might be a bit dodgy as I'm likely to be crammed in with up to nine other people. Not nice on a 24 hour drive in high altitude. Also the HPTDC bus does an overnight in Keylong, which will do very well for my acclimatisation.

I'm still a bit worried about the police/army checkposts---there are at least five of them---because outside of Trivandrum, they don't seem to understand that Maldivians do not need a visa for up to three months of stay in India. Also, if they check my bags see the XL1, I bet I'll be barraged with even more questions.

The route to Ladakh lies on a sensitive border area between India and China and hence the heavy military presence.

So some nuances ahead, but the mountain views and the crisp air might be dispelling the worries.

Martin, chaya is South Indian for tea.

Hey Nios, I think Sharif would like those pink sunsets.

Up to Manali

What a bus ride, it took more than 24 hours to get to Manali from Delhi. Normally the trip is done in 15 hours, but a landslide caused a traffic jam, holding us up for hours. I also suspect the bus, a "sleeper", was rather slow. It was a grey, cloudy day, as we crossed the mountains and valleys up to Manali. I also saw apple orchads on the way here. This is known as apple country, and they even make apple wine and cider here!

The temperature has dropped somewhat and you can see your breath, but it isn't really wintry.

I've got a nice little room with a balcony overlooking the Mall, the main street of Manali. It's great here after Delhi the people are friendly without trying to milk you dry. I'll probably stay here for two nights here to acclimatise (the altitude is over 2,000 metres) before I head off towards Leh.

I've still got the aftertaste from an unpleasant memory of my last visit here; it remains to be seen how well I cope tonight and get back into the spirit worthy of this trans-Himalayan odyssey.