Khunder

The village of Khunder is spread out in an oasis of green in the dry, deserts of the Nubra Valley. Avenues of poplar serve as roads and farmfolk live out their pastoral existence here.

Just outside the village are sand dunes, complete with double-humped camels. The sand, the surrounding brown hills and the snow capped mountains in the distant give the place a surreal look.

I went for a stroll through the village to the sand dunes. On the way back, a soldier stopped me to ask if I was from Kerala or Madras. When I said Maldives he told me to feel free to wander wherever I wanted, such is the power of the low-lying island nation I've left.

I got back to the guesthouse unusually tired and went into the kitchen where I was welcomed and told I could take my dinner. I was grateful because it was getting cold outside.

Our driver arrived and was surprised to see me there. But he struck up a conversation and we seemed to "bond". Soon all the staff of the guesthouse gathered here to take their dinner. I was a hit here, known as "the guy with the large camera". The cook, a jolly Tibetan woman, called me "Ali Berber" and the caretaker announced I was their first Maldivian guest.

I had a great evening and the best sleep since I got to Ladakh.