Day 6: Dingboche

16 April 2007
Dingboche, 4,350metres, 2pm

I might have the beginnings of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickeness). Last night I woke up a few times because my head felt heavy. But when I adjusted the pillow a little I was OK. And, this morning I was fine also. So, after breakfast, I headed off to Chukhung (4,750m). It took 1 hour 45 mins to get to Bibre and another 25 minutes to reach Chukhung. The return trip took less than 1 hour 30 minutes.

I was Ok for most of the trip but on the gentle uphill I did stop a few times to rest. For the last 30 minutes or so I didn't stop at all.

At Chukhung, it emerged that 2 American climbers were on Ama Dablam so there were a lot of people trying to spot them through binoculars. Chukhung has fantastic views of Lhotse, Island Peak and a fluted snowfall (in the photo).

I felt a slight headache there and it was with me on my way back, still is actually. I'm a little worred but I'll see how it goes. If it's still there in the morning I'll just stay here another night.

4.30pm
I'm sitting by the window watching people sow potatoes as clouds roll up from the valley. It's freezing out there but they're cracking jokes and smiling as they work the tough land. It's a picture of hardy folk struglling for existence in an extreme environment.

My headache's gone and my appetite is back. As I look out of the window I can see groups of tired trekkers arriving--I probably looked worse when I got here.